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When curating a ranking of London’s best dining spots, one might foresee well-known high-end venues. However, situated near the top among these food heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu found in a distant area of northern London.

A Surprise Recognition

The small Turkish spot, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a respected food magazine. The recognition has left the family completely surprised.

“I’m utterly shocked,” remarks the owner’s son, referring to his family’s relentless work that led to their modest shop achieving such a lofty spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

The small shop, which was a simple cafe before its change into a popular destination, has retained much of its former character. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking show, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” comments the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is focused on the food, and this eatery more than succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. Once the meaty mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the savoury meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than is typical, giving it a more intense, more aromatic and more balanced flavour.

Surpassing the Titans

Notably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the peak of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, equivalent tasting menus at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

The Creed of Warmth

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is supported by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a role of power, he would “require to make every chef in London train at this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to reveal what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I am truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she had a life outside work but her friends would visit to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

A Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s accolade is bound to have meaning beyond its own walls. “I think many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the broader meaning of this culinary achievement.